kimberley west australia

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the gibb river road

coming from europe (via singapore), darwin NT is the first destination in australia before heading to the kimberley.

then you take a long, long ride to kununurra, west australia

boab trees are typical for the kimberley.

the gibb river road (eastern part)

the cockburn range at the eastern end of the gibb rver road

the gibb river road through the heart of the kimberley is about 750 km long. only the last few kilometers at the western end are paved, shortly before derby.

pentecost river: make sure you check the depth meter on the side of the road before crossing the river. as the water level of the pentecost river changes with the tides, try to be there at low tide... if you got stuck, good luck... there are estuarine crocodiles (salties) living at this habitat :))

near home valley station.

most of the gibb river road is heavily corrugated, it gets worse during dry season, because the road is only graded after the wet season.

the trick is to drive rather fast (about 60-80km/h), but as more cars drive too fast as worse it gets... with high speed contact to the ground is little, what makes driving very dangerous in the rare curves

the roadside, sometimes the whole road is covered with "bull dust" which penetrates wherever you can imagine. close the windows ;o)

it feels like driving fast on powdersnow in the alps.

these big animals, called "road trains", you meet all along the gibb.

take care, slow down and give way! it`s much easier to stop a little landcruiser then these trucks, packed with hundreds of cattle.

but: the drivers are real cracks, so don`t panic, just give way.

and: if you are in mechanical troubles they ar very friendly and helpful.

mount elizabeth station / wunnumurra gorge

insiders`tip: good people, good food, clean beds. there is a camp ground as well.

gate and way to the station

after a very bumpy drive and additional hour walk, you end up at a little creek which suddenly opens to a wonderful, marvelous gorge. the wunnumurra gorge.

on the cliffs at the left of the gorge you discover a fantastic rock art gallery. there you can find many wandjinas, painted in red, black and ocre on white background. they typicaly have no mouth. they are rain or cloud spirits.

the clear water invites to relax and cool down.

the gibb river road (western part)

mt barnett roadhouse is located in the middle of the gibb river road, approx. 400 km from kununurra and 300 km to derby.

it`s the place to refuel your vehicle, get a good coffee and exchange road condition informations.

here you also buy your manning gorge voucher.

lower manning gorge is crossed in a little ferry and after an hour walk you are at manning gorge. (very busy at mid day)

any problems with your tyres or engine are fixed immediately at

"over the range tyre & mechanical repairs"

20 kms west of the barnett roadhouse.

all the way down the gibb you can meet strolling cattle crossing exactly at the time you are passing... so take care.

our home for almost three weeks:

we loved it!

the landcruiser V8 4.8l with pop up roof.

very reliable, 2x 90l diesel tank and 50l water tank.

here we stay at silent grove, a very special place near bell gorge.

bell gorge

if you want to be alone at bell gorge, make sure to get up early (5am :)

often you see small bush fires. short after the wet season locals call them "harmless", but if you have a flat tyre (flatsly) close to them, they are scary anyway and the smoke bites the nose...

derby

past leopold ranges and fairfield-leopold road crossing, the last 100 km of the gibb river road follows through an absolutely flat area straight to derby.

a single track in the middle of the road is paved.

the jetty is the main attraction of derby in the evening, where people meet for fishing and watching the sunset.

derby is a small country town with extremely red soil.

a supermarket, fuel stations, tyrefixing places, tourist information and a few hotels to recuperate before heading on.

mark norval, whose book we first glanced at mt elizabeth station, operates a wonderful gallery at towns edge.

there he and aboriginal artists work in- and outdoor.

paintings, carved boabtree nuts, prints (etching) and sculptures can be admired and bought.

monika and mark norval

aboriginal artist at work

windjana gorge np

at windjana gorge lots of freshwater crocodiles study tourists looking at them...

compared with the agressive estuarine crocodiles (salties) they are harmless, lazy guys.

tunnel creek

not far from windjana, following fairfield-leopold road, is tunnel creek. you wade in the dark through knee deep water (yes! there are crocs...) for about a kilometer.

make sure to bring a headlight and an additional, strong torch.

finally you get out into the sun at a beautyfull creek with an old rockart gallery protected by this olive python.

after a long, lonesome drive (no car crossed our way), you hit the great northern highway close to the great sandy desert.

it`s a dry, remote country out there. at halls creek you could turn right to tanami desert or the canning stock route, which would be interesting next time........

a last word about driving the outback: check your tyre pressure and engine everyday before starting.

I loved it, even not having a road train.

the grey nomads:

after retirement many australians sell their homes, or leave them to the kids and buy a big 4 wheel drive with a caravan or campertrailer. than they start the big adventure around australia. depending on the weather and season you meet them in the kimberley during the dry and in the south when the wet hits the north.

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